Cockles are members of the Cardium family, and there are over two hundred varieties. They are small bivalves with radial shell markings. Many of the 'cockles' used in Ireland, and exported to France at an alarming rate, are first cousins and members of the clam family (Venerupis decussata). They are called locally in Co. Kerry, where they are extensively fished, Carpetshell and Kirleen, and in Irish, Ruacan. They have a smooth surface with a slight ridge running vertically over the shell.

Small clams, mussels or scallops can be used for any of these recipes, or a mixture of all four shellfish.

Scrub the cockles well, to get rid of the sand and grit. Then put them into a large saucepan, with preferably seawater, to cover. If this is not available, use salted water. Bring them to the boil, when they will open. Do not continue cooking once the shells are open but cool until cold enough to handle and then take the cockles out of their shells. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, then add the strained cockle juice and milk, stirring all the time until it is smoothly blended. Put in the chopped parsley, celery and seasoning and cook for 10 minutes. Finally add the cockles, heat and serve with a little cream on each portion.

Boiled cockles in County Down are cooked as above, and when taken from shells are heated up with butter, pepper, salt and the juice of a lemon.

Reprinted from "A Taste of Ireland", p. 63, Theodora FitzGibbon, 1968